Le Caveau des Oubliettes

One of our guides, Sophie, told us about a jazz club she liked called le Caveau des Oubliettes, near the boulevard Saint-Michel. The club had no cover charge on Thursdays, so on a Thursday night, we headed out a bit early, hoping to beat the crowd. The show started at 10, but by 9:40, the line winded out the door and into the street. When the doors opened, we all flooded in, carefully picking our way down curved stone stairs into—that’s right—a cave. Once everyone had settled down with a drink, the music began.

The band was good. It’s been a while since I’ve had the chance to listen to some live jazz music, but this band certainly satisfied my craving. My favorite part was watching the drummer’s face. He looked so happy to be on that stage, heartily beating away at his drum set, as though there was nothing on earth that he would rather be doing than playing with his fellow band members. After a couple of pieces, a singer strolled out and began belting her stuff—in English. Her second song was Aretha Franklin’s “Respect,” and the power in her voice certainly won her my respect. It makes you wonder. There is such talent in hiding holes like that club, while singers like Mandy Moore, who have no skills to speak of, are world-famous.

Click here to see a video clip of the "Respect" performance.

K.B.